Global Cool »
The return of the Kolhapuri chappals, and how Prada stirred the pot!
Kolhapuri chappals step from tradition to global runways, sparking a powerful debate on cultural ownership, authenticity, and fashion ethics
By Mallik K
Kolhapuri chappals — handcrafted leather sandals rooted in Kolhapur since the 12th century — embody centuries of skilled craftsmanship and cultural identity. These open-toe sandals, intricately braided and toe-looped, were championed by royalty like Shahu Maharaj, who established tanning centres to sustain the local artisan economy.
In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, legally acknowledging their heritage and ensuring that artisans in specific regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka uphold the craft. But beyond legal recognition, these sandals once symbolized India’s artisanal legacy.
When Prada walked into the story
In June 2025, Prada’s Spring–Summer 2026 men’s collection in Milan featured sandals unmistakably resembling Kolhapuri chappals — yet labeled merely as “leather flat sandals”. The runway sparked global attention, with several looks featuring the iconic toe-ring design and tan leather aesthetics.
Netizens and artisans were swift to call it cultural erasure:
“Prada’s ₹ 1.2 lakh Kolhapuri chappals are a shameless cash grab… These handcrafted chappals… sell for ₹ 300–₹ 1500 in Kolhapur’s markets.”
“No credit. No acknowledgement. Just pure cultural theft dressed in luxury branding.”
The outrage intensified because the GI tag forbids misuse without proper origin attribution. Lawmakers demanded government action, with threats of PILs and calls for compensation.
Prada’s response: Acknowledgment and engagement
Following public backlash, Prada issued a statement through Lorenzo Bertelli, head of Corporate Social Responsibility, acknowledging the inspiration:
“We acknowledge that the sandals… are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage… We deeply recognize the cultural significance…”.
Additionally, Prada opened dialogue with artisan groups via Maharashtra’s Chamber of Commerce (MACCIA), proposing a video conference to explore collaborations and even the possibility of establishing a Prada Artisan Excellence Lab in Kolhapur or Mumbai.
In mid-July, a team led by Prada’s men’s production director visited Kolhapur to meet artisans firsthand, underscoring a willingness to build bridges—and perhaps craft a co-branded Kolhapuri line, responsibly produced.
Heritage fashion: Revival and risks
This episode isn’t isolated. The fashion world is witnessing a deepening interest in heritage and artisanal craftsmanship — not just as a trend, but as narrative. GQ’s coverage of brands like Yuketen and Santoni shows how tradition and modern design can harmonize.
In a similar vein, the ghillie lace-up shoe—a traditional Celtic footwear—is enjoying a revival through contemporary reimaginings by Chloé, Simone Rocha, and others. Yet, many of these heritage revivals have been shaped by collaborations — tangible partnerships that respect origin storytellers. By contrast, Prada’s initial move was criticized as a classic case of cultural appropriation — taking without credit, not partnering or honoring.
What’s now, and what could come next
1. Recognition & restoration
The uproar has prompted important questions: Who owns culture? When does inspiration become exploitation? Experts and officials argue India must protect GI-tagged crafts globally, and support artisans through marketing, legal frameworks, and credit.
2. Economic & cultural payback
Artisans in Kolhapur, once overlooked, are now global figures. If Prada follows through, they could gain co-branding opportunities, fair compensation, and exposure to new markets.
3. A template for respectful revival
Rather than erasing source communities, fashion could adopt a new model: collaborative heritage revival. Dior and Louboutin, for instance, have previously worked with Indian artisans to co-create collections that profit artists as much as brands.
4. Dialogue & legal precedents
The matter may reach legal realms, especially as GI rights evolve internationally. But beyond courtrooms, the broader message is clear: global fashion must evolve from appropriation to co-creativity.
As one observer put it: “When international fashion houses adopt our designs, it is our artisans whose names, work, and legacy must be showcased—not sidelined.”
The Kolhapuri comeback, and what it teaches us
The Kolhapuri chappal’s unexpected walk into Milan’s luxury runway underlines a powerful narrative: heritage crafts still speak—and when they go unheard, controversies arise. Prada’s misstep—and eventual attempt to engage—highlight the precarious balance between inspiration and exploitation.
For cultural heritage to endure—and enrich fashion—there must be respect, acknowledgment, and livelihood first. The return of Kolhapuri chappals, ignited by global visibility, could mark a watershed moment—if it raises not only awareness, but also equity, collaboration, and authenticity.
This is more than a trendy sandal. It’s a test: Can global fashion learn to walk with culture, not ahead of it?